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NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER • A NEW YORK TIMES NOTABLE BOOK
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NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY The Miami Herald • Newsday • The Huffington Post • Financial Times • GQ • Slate • Men’s Journal • Washington Examiner • Publishers Weekly • Kirkus Reviews • National Post • The Toronto Star • BookPage • Bookreporter
“I wanted the lettuce and eggs at room temperature . . . the butter-and-sugar sandwiches we ate after school for snack . . . the marrow bones my mother made us eat as kids that I grew to crave as an adult. . . . There would be no ‘conceptual’ or ‘intellectual’ food, just the salty, sweet, starchy, brothy, crispy things that one craves when one is actually hungry. In ecstatic farewell to my years of corporate catering, we would never serve anything but a martini in a martini glass. Preferably gin.”
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Before Gabrielle Hamilton opened her acclaimed New York restaurant Prune, she spent twenty fierce, hard-living years trying to find purpose and meaning in her life. Above all she sought family, particularly the thrill and the magnificence of the one from her childhood that, in her adult years, eluded her. Hamilton’s ease and comfort in a kitchen were instilled in her at an early age when her parents hosted grand parties, often for more than one hundred friends and neighbors. The smells of spit-roasted lamb, apple wood smoke, and rosemary garlic marinade became as necessary to her as her own skin.
Blood, Bones & Butter follows an unconventional journey through the many kitchens Hamilton has inhabited through the years: the rural kitchen of her childhood, where her adored mother stood over the six-burner with an oily wooden spoon in hand; the kitchens of France, Greece, and Turkey, where she was often fed by complete strangers and learned the essence of hospitality; the soulless catering factories that helped pay the rent; Hamilton’s own kitchen at Prune, with its many unexpected challenges; and the kitchen of her Italian mother-in-law, who serves as the link between Hamilton’s idyllic past and her own future family—the result of a difficult and prickly marriage that nonetheless yields rich and lasting dividends.
Blood, Bones & Butter is an unflinching and lyrical work. Gabrielle Hamilton’s story is told with uncommon honesty, grit, humor, and passion. By turns epic and intimate, it marks the debut of a tremendous literary talent.
From the Hardcover edition.
- Sales Rank: #1894447 in Books
- Published on: 2011-03-01
- Released on: 2011-03-01
- Formats: Audiobook, Unabridged
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 8
- Dimensions: 5.86" h x 1.10" w x 5.09" l, .56 pounds
- Running time: 630 minutes
- Binding: Audio CD
Amazon.com Review
Amazon Best Books of the Month, March 2011: Gabrielle Hamilton's memoir, Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef, is just what a chef's story should be--delectable, dripping with flavor, tinged with adrenaline and years of too-little sleep. What sets Hamilton apart, though, is her ability to write with as much grace as vitriol, a distinct tenderness marbling her meaty story. Hamilton spent her idyllic childhood on a wild farm in rural Pennsylvania with an exhilarant father--an artist and set builder--and French mother, both "incredibly special and outrageously handsome." As she entered her teens, however, her family unexpectedly dissolved. She moved to New York City at 16, living off loose change and eating ketchup packets from McDonald’s; worked 20-hour days at a soulless catering company; traveled, often half-starved, through Europe; and cooked for allergy-riddled children at a summer camp. The constant thread running through this patchwork tale, which culminates with the opening of her New York City restaurant, Prune, is Hamilton's slow simmering passion for cooking and the comfort it can bring. "To be picked up and fed, often by strangers, when you are in that state of fear and hunger, became the single most important food experience I came back to over and over," Hamilton writes, and it's this poignant understanding of the link between food and kindness that makes Blood, Bones & Butter so satisfying to read. --Lynette Mong
Guest Reviewer: Anthony Bourdain on Blood, Bones, and Butter
Anthony Bourdain is the author of the novels Bone in the Throat and Gone Bamboo, in addition to the bestseller Kitchen Confidential and A Cook's Tour. His work has appeared in the New York Times and The New Yorker, and he is a contributing authority for Food Arts magazine. He is also the host of the Emmy Award-winning television show No Reservations.
Very quickly after meeting Gabrielle Hamilton, I understood why she was a terrific and much-admired chef. I knew that her restaurant, Prune, was ground-breaking, that she seemed to have come out of nowhere, instead of being a product of the "system" (she'd emerged from the invisible subculture of catering), to open one of the most quirky, totally uncompromising, and quickly-embraced restaurants in New York City. Her purportedly (but not really) Franco-phobic menus were intensely, notoriously personal, her early embrace of the nose-to-tail attitude was way, way ahead the times, and chefs--all chefs--seemed to like and respect her. Almost as quickly, it became apparent that this chef could write.
Short pieces appeared here and there over the years and they were sharp, funny, incisive, unsparing of both author and subjects--straight to the point and pretense-free, like Hamilton herself. She could write really well. And she had, from all accounts, a story to tell. So when it was announced that Blood, Bones, and Butter was in the works, I was very excited.
It was a long wait.
Five years later, I finally got my hands on an advance copy and eagerly devoured it. It was of course brilliant. I expected it to be. But I wasn't prepared for exactly how goddamn brilliant the thing was, or how enchanted, difficult, strange, rich, inspiring and just plain hard her life and career--her long road to Prune--had been. I was unprepared for page after page of such sharp, carefully-crafted, ballistically-precise sentences. I was, frankly, devastated. I put this amazing memoir down and wanted to crawl under the bed, retroactively withdraw every book, every page I'd ever written. And burn them.
Blood, Bones, and Butter is, quite simply, the far-and-away best chef or food-genre memoir...ever. EVER. It certainly kicked the hell out of my Kitchen Confidential, which suddenly, in a second, felt shallow, sophomoric and ultimately lightweight next to this...this monster of a book, this--at times--truly hardscrabble life…Blood, Bones, and Butter is deeper, better written, more hardcore, more fully fleshed-out; a more well-rounded story than every sunflower-and-saffron account of soft-core food porn in France. It's as bullshit and pretense-free as AJ Leibling--and at least as well written, but more poignant, romantic--even thrilling.
It makes any "as told to" account of famous chef's lives look instantly ludicrous and bloodless. I've struggled to think of somebody/anybody who's written a better account of the journey to chefdom and can't think of anyone who's come even close.
Writing a memoir of one's life as a chef--or even writing about one's relationship with food--has, with the publication of this book, become much more difficult. Hamilton has raised the bar higher than most of us could ever hope to reach. This book will sell a gazillion copies. It will be a bestseller. It will be an enduring classic. It will inspire generation after generation of young cooks, and anyone who really loves food and understands the context in which it is best enjoyed, NOT as some isolated, over-valued object of desire, but as only one important aspect of a larger, richer spectrum of experiences. Each plate of food--like the menu at Prune--is the end result of a long and sometimes very difficult struggle.
Read this book and prepare to clean your system of all that's come before. It's a game-changer and a truly great work by a great writer and great chef.
From Publishers Weekly
Starred Review. Owner and chef of New York's Prune restaurant, Hamilton also happens to be a trained writer (M.F.A., University of Michigan) and fashions an addictive memoir of her unorthodox trajectory to becoming a chef. The youngest of five siblings born to a French mother who cooked "tails, claws, and marrow-filled bones" in a good skirt, high heels, and apron, and an artist father who made the sets for the Ringling Bros. and Barnum and Bailey Circus, Hamilton spent her early years in a vast old house on the rural Pennsylvania–New Jersey border. With the divorce of her parents when she was an adolescent, the author was largely left to her own devices, working at odd jobs in restaurants. Peeling potatoes and scraping plates-"And that, just like that, is how a whole life can start." At age 16, in 1981, she got a job waiting tables at New York's Lone Star Cafe, and when caught stealing another waitress's check, she was nearly charged with grand larceny. After years of working as a "grunt" freelance caterer and going back to school to learn to write (inspired by a National Book Foundation conference she was catering), Hamilton unexpectedly started up her no-nonsense, comfort-food Prune in a charming space in the East Village in 1999. Hamilton can be refreshingly thorny (especially when it comes to her reluctance to embrace the "foodie" world), yet she is also as frank and unpretentious as her menu-and speaks openly about marrying an Italian man (despite being a lesbian), mostly to cook with his priceless Old World mother in Italy. (Mar.)
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From Booklist
The book’s subtitle should arouse interest. How was the author’s education inadvertent? What is the reason she was reluctant to become a chef? All will become clear upon completion of the final page of this lusty, rollicking, engaging-from-page-one memoir of the chef-owner of Prune restaurant in New York’s East Village. Hamilton opened her eating establishment without any prior experience in cheffing, but the life experiences she did have before that bold move, told here in honest detail, obviously made up for any deficiencies in heading up a restaurant and also provide material for an electric story that is interesting even if the author hadn’t become the chef-owner of a successful restaurant. An idyllic childhood turned sour when her parents divorced; her adolescence and young womanhood encompassed drugs, menial jobs, and lack of direction and initiative when it came to continued education. All’s well that ends well, however, and her story does indeed do that. Add this to the shelf of chef memoirs but also recommend it to readers with a penchant for forthright, well-written memoirs in general. --Brad Hooper
Most helpful customer reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Meh.
By love that Brooklyn
I was really hoping to like this memoir given all the rave reviews, but I just couldn't. I always felt like Ms. Hamilton was showing the reader how amazingly cool she was, from childhood to adolescence to adulthood to success. Her style of writing in so many instances was a wee bit trite and too forced, often using adjective after adjective after... (well you get the point) even when something simple and straightforward would suffice. I stopped 3/4 of the through. Heat, Kitchen Confidential, Comfort Me with Apples, Momofuku, all engaged me so much more than Blood, Bones, and Butter (which is indeed a kick ass title). With all due respect, Gabrielle Hamilton interviews so much better (thinking of her on PBS' The Mind of a Chef) in person than her writing on paper.
9 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
Like the book but not the author
By sas
This memoir of the making of a chef is for the most part beautifully written. So many descriptions are lovely especially in the first part, "Blood", where the author recounts her young years. Her memories of her mother are especially tender - "I remember the smell of the sulphur every morning as she lit a match to warm the tip of her black wax pencil." Or, "I sat in that woman's aproned lap every single night of my young life, so close to the sounds and smells of her that I still know her body as if it were my own." The portrayals of her father's lamb roasts are classic. Once the family disintegrates and Ms. Hamilton is more or less abandoned by both parents, she, and the book, lose her special freshness of observation and story-telling and a bitter, angry tone dominates.
In the next part, "Bones", as she comes into her own slowly as a chef, and as other reviewers have noted, Ms. Hamilton trashes nearly everyone and everything she comes into contact with - fellow students in a writing class, other female chefs, catering companies, people she works for and with, suppliers etc. While clever and often funny in her criticisms, the premise that she is the only one who knows how to do things right, no matter what the issue, grates. Yes, successful chefs must be demanding of themselves and egotistical [as in most fields] but she continually exudes a superiority complex coupled with a martyrdom problem [how many times did she say she had to nurse her infants and cook and clean and get no sleep and be on her feet all day and...].
Most off-putting of all is her unrelenting bitterness and dreadful relationship with those supposedly closest to her: her father drifts out of the book completely in the early pages, she visits her mother once in 20 years and is incapable, as others have noted, of compassion or forgiveness and most appallingly shows no sadness at the death of a brother. Does she have friends? It seems so but even she notes that her moods are so volatile especially when her "blood sugar" is down that everyone is more than a little afraid of her. Her marriage is depressing as it seems to be one of convenience so her Italian husband can get a green card; does she love him? We never know. She writes a little of the worshipful adoration she holds for her two sons - shouldn't those feelings help her to mature by the end of the book to develop those softer human qualities that give essence to a richer, happier life? She never truly reveals who she is or who those around her are. She never digs into her feelings to understand her behavior.
The last part of the book, "Butter", is too long and repetitious as we go again and again to Italy and eat the same meals over and over. She doesn't even learn Italian so she can converse with her husband's family! - how telling when she laments near the end that, "If I don't come back...I will not be missed, and no one will write me or call me to acknowledge my absence."
Ms. Hamilton has great talent as a writer, and I'm sure she's a great chef; she's succeeded in those realms. Now maybe she can work on herself and become a more tolerant, nicer person. Now THAT would be accomplishment!
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Ultimately, a very sad book
By Cissa
I loved the cooking parts of this book. Hamilton described them interestingly and well. The chapters on professional catering alone are worth a read-0 one can easily why so much catered food ends up dismal, even when the basic ideas are sound.
Cooking is clearly Hamilton's passion in life, and she writes the best when she writes about it, whether as a chef, a home cook, or an eater.
The rest of the book, though, was sad. Hamilton has apparently not had good fortune with relationships, and one can see why: she is not especially self-aware, let alone being able and willing to have much empathy for others. Fair enough; most people who have over-riding passions in their lives tend to scant all other aspects of their lives. However, I think they would be best-advised to keep their memoirs focused on their passions, then, rather than much about the other aspects of life which tend to leave them baffled. Hamilton has a very tough shell, and somehow manages to say even pretty unfavorable things about herself without making me feel like she's taking me into her confidence.
Given that Hamilton has an MFA in writing, I was surprised at how disjointed this memoir was. I've read similarly disjointed memoirs, but they are usually "as told to" books that are in essence stream-of-consciousness storytelling, brought somewhat into shape by the co-writer (the one with the training). I got the feeling that Hamilton was trying to make some sort of point with all the jumping around in space and time... but I have no idea what that point was.
The cooking parts make this work. The rest could have used more insight, more compassion for herself and others, and more generosity of spirit... and, perhaps, somewhat less of a hard shell.
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